Every city has its institutions, places that are part of the cultural fabric, spots you recommend to anyone and everyone when you’re asked where to go for a special occasion. The Salt Room in Brighton has felt like this since it first opened in 2015. Occupying one of the city’s most sought-after spots on the seafront, the restaurant has always been the go-to for locals for life’s more memorable moments; anniversaries, birthdays etc. Despite being a little pricier than other spots in the area, it avoids feeling pretentious or stale, letting an inspired menu of local seafood do the talking and consistently maintaining its place as one of Brighton’s best spots for all things under the sea.

It’s somewhat bold then, for such a place to shut down for four months for a full refurbishment and menu refresh, but the gamble has paid off for Black Rock (who seemingly have a small monopoly on Brighton’s restaurant scene with Burnt Orange, The Coal Shed and Tutto also on the roster). The new Salt Room captures everything diners love about the space, but also reacts to how all dining experiences have changed over the last decade. You’re welcomed into a new bar that feels like a destination in itself, a place you actually feel happy waiting for your table rather than the sterile waiting room set up that can subconsciously make you think you’re about to have an appointment at the dentist. We start with a classic Paloma (it also comes in a frozen variety here), made with Cazcabel Tequila, which pairs perfectly with the sharp grapefruit soda. I defy anyone to name a better cocktail before eating a boatload of seafood.

Replacing the classic starter-main-dessert structure, the reinvigorated menu aims at a more flexible approach, meaning you can have anything from a couple of oysters with a glass of fizz through to a full shellfish feast (and everything in between). We find a balance between the two and opt for the seafood tower, a move for those who want to try the best of everything. Oyster shooters, tarama, tuna sashimi, fresh oysters, chilled clams, sea bass crudo, anchovy gildas and crab salad deliver a symphony of the seas; the ceviche fresh and flavoursome and the oysters packing that perfect salty punch. We order some focaccia on the side to mop up the taramasalata and the crab salad. My dining partner and I agree this would be the ideal summer lunch (paired with some Wiston Estate Sparkling Wine, of course), particularly sat in the refurbished terrace which offers arguably the best restaurant view in the city, overlooking the West Pier.

As expected, the fish menu is extensive and detailed, with a mix of classics alongside day boat catches and market specials. We go down the line with the grilled butterfly sea bass, served with a bergamot and mandarin butter that is rich without being overpowering, cooked on the parilla grill for a perfect char on the skin while keeping everything else juicy. Halibut on the bone served with monk’s beard and bonito roe butter sauce is another hit, paired perfectly with the Wykham Park Farm asparagus, which lies on a bed of tahini and garlic crumb that you will want to mop up with any available food you have left. One of the more fun sides are the classic French fries, which are served with Avruga caviar and crème fraîche. While we thought this may just be the restaurant playing up to Instagram, the combination works, especially the liberal serving of dill to balance out the caviar.

After feeling like we’ve depleted the fishing resources in the English Channel, we politely decline a dessert and instead opt for a signature cocktail to round off the night. The Beer Old Fashioned, made with Evan Williams, Rittenhouse Rye and Estrella Inedit syrup, could be The Salt Room’s true sleeper hit. Punchy on the nose but remarkably smooth in the throat, this refreshing take on a classic is inventive, delicious and truly dangerous, dare I say one of the best cocktails in the city.

The new Salt Room clearly plays to its strengths, yet also refuses to rest on its laurels and is pushing things forward to align with the modern diner. This is a restaurant that is doing everything right, and continuing to cement a legacy in one of Britain’s most highly contested foodie cities. 

For more information on The Salt Room, see here.

106 Kings Rd, Brighton and Hove, Brighton BN1 2FU