During the pandemic, some people got really into fitness, others learned a new language, and a handful finally wrote that novel they had always dreamed of. Me? I got really into the Netflix series ‘Chef’s Table’. After working through every Bourdain series to the point that I made myself sick of mortadella sandwiches, Chef’s Table felt like a refreshing mix of travel inspiration and storytelling, the closest I could get to groundbreaking dining while sitting in a rented flat in North London eating banana bread.

Undoubtedly, one of the most poignant episodes was about Ivan Orkin, a New Yorker who moved to Japan to open a ramen shop that took the city by storm. Although an American taking on one of Japan’s most iconic dishes could seem like a novelty, Orkin gained a huge amount of respect and admiration in Tokyo with his fresh approach and attention to detail, meaning when he finally returned home and opened Ivan Ramen on New York’s Lower East Side in 2013. It immediately became a must visit spot in the city (and has remained so for over a decade).

Naturally then, the launch of a UK outpost in London (finally) comes incredibly highly anticipated, and thankfully lives up to the hype. Considering it is surrounded by some of the capital’s biggest players (Quality Chop House, The Eagle, Bouchon Racine are all a stumble away), Ivan Ramen’s London outpost is pleasantly unassuming, the kind of place you wouldn’t know the storied history by just walking past. However, that is almost the perfect encapsulation of the brand, a pure focus on food and getting the simple things nailed effortlessly.

Of course, the restaurant’s namesake is the star of the show, but we kick things off with some foreplay in the form of Ivan’s Karaage, which is delightfully juicy thanks to utilising the chicken thigh rather than the breast, coated in a spiced buttermilk and served with a yuzu kosho mayonnaise that is a pure flavour bomb. Packing that perfect salty punch without being greasy, it’s fried chicken that almost feels good for you (if not the body, at least the soul), and we pair with a healthy portion of the chicken gyoza. We wash things down with a can of Ivan Ramen to Biiru IPA, a collaboration with Scandi brewers Mikkeler and a beautiful hazy drop that provides a nice switch up to the Asahi’s/Sapporo’s we’re accustomed to with Japanese cuisine.

Onto the main event, the ramen menu is delightfully varied, from the classics (your Shoyu’s etc) through to innovative takes like the spicy miso red chilli and the truffled veggie for the plant-based heads, with a truffled dashi, oyster mushrooms, roasted tomato, tenderstem broccoli and spring onions. We opt for a traditional choice in the Tonkotsu, which manages to feel like a love letter from Orkin to Japanese cuisine. Every element comes through on its own, like when a frontman introduces every member of the band (we usually go to the bar at this time to be honest). Shoyu-braised pork chashu packs an immense amount of flavour, while woodear mushrooms add a rustic texture. Pickled mustard greens dominate the aftertaste in an unforgettable way, with everything brought together by a rich pork broth that steals the show.

This is comfort food, but elevated to the highest level, somehow managing to walk a tight-rope between casual dining and a meal that will stay with you for some time. Needless to say, Wagamama and Shoyu Ramen won’t be seeing me for the foreseeable.

For more information on Ivan Ramen, see here 

98 Farringdon Rd, London EC1R 3EA