Everything about Tattu screams “Instagram-friendly date night”, from the huge fake blossom tree in the middle of the restaurant to the signature cocktails which arrive in fog-filled containers. It’s so targeted at shortform content that our waiter even pauses before lifting the lid on the ‘hidden dragon’ and asks if we’d like to film the big reveal – and you know what? Of course we would.

Part of the wholesale transformation of Tottenham Court Road, the restaurant is in the same block as the swish Outernet ‘cultural attraction’ (read: big screens with fancy graphics on them), nestled on the 6th floor with views out over the central crossing. Inside, it’s all mood-lighting and Chinese-inspired touches, with distinct zoning for different parts of the restaurant. We’re sat by the window, but further in underneath the cherry tree seems to be a popular spot for those who want to get a few snaps for social media.

But, as much as Tattu sells itself on spectacle, this is still a restaurant. So: how does it stack up? Very well, actually. Sure, it’s on the pricier end of the scale, but its location and decor tell you that as soon as you walk in the door. What’s gratifying, though, is how good the food is, when really it could get away with just being ok. People are here for the fake tree and the weird cocktails, but the dim sum, one of which is artfully shaped like a goldfish, is up there with the best we’ve had. Flavours overlap without crowding each other out, and even the ‘surf and turf’ short rib and king prawn dumpling manages to avoid being obnoxious, instead having just a hint of spice which helps underpin the flavours.

Peking duck pancakes are another highlight. The duck comes to the table sliced, rather than shredded, with the thick layer of fat around the edge melting in your mouth. The homemade hoisin sauce it comes with is an absolute game-changer, too. It’ll never taste the same out of a bottle after you try Tattu’s take on it.

The intimidatingly large menu is roughly split into starters and mains, but the staff are more than happy to explain what’s what and, crucially, how to order without so much food coming to your table that you feel like you could die. The Shanghai Black Cod, from the mains section, is a revelation and showcases the same expertise in blending flavours as the dim sum. On paper, hoisin, ginger and lime would totally overpower the delicate fishiness of the cod, but somehow it all works perfectly together.

On to desserts and the Tattu signature is their ‘cherry blossom’ – a completely edible tree with candyfloss blossom and a chocolate trunk. Having seen it a thousand times on Instagram reels, we instead go for the ‘chocolate pagoda’, which is…slightly less impressive. The pagoda is a square of ice cream stacked on a blondie and a brownie, with a chocolate roof which is melted when the waiter pours sauce over it. Unfortunately, it’s more ‘children’s building blocks’ than ‘elegant pagoda’ for our money, making it a bit less visually impressive. That isn’t to say it’s not delicious, because it is. Just don’t expect to wow anyone at adjacent tables with the spectacle.

Tattu absolutely does not have to serve good food. Its central location, social media reputation and focus on impressive optics do all the heavy lifting when it comes to pulling in customers. It’s a testament to them that even without all the set dressing, there’s some excellent stuff on the menu. Go to film a smoking cocktail on your monthly date night, then come back the next month because you can’t get those dumplings out of your head.

For more information on Tattu, see here 

The Now Building Rooftop, Outernet, Denmark St, London WC2H 0LA