Eat Here: Oaxen Krog, StockholmBy Angelica Malin
There’s not many restaurants in life that leave me speechless. Speechless, in a good sense. Oaxen Krog is the first restaurant in a long time that left me lost for words, it surpassed my expectations by a country mile. The excellent service, the Scandi decor and the food, oh the food. It has all of these things in abundance.
If you’re planning a trip to Stockholm, or tossing up the idea of visiting this fantastic city, make sure to book a table at Oaxen Krog, here’s why:
Oaxen Krog: The History
Agneta Green and Magnus Ek are the driving force behind Oaxen, a waterside restaurant located on the Djurgården ship marina in Stockholm. The eatery is a celebration of sustainability, creativity and ethically produced ingredients. At the heart of Oaxen Krog is not just the food, but the journey from farm to fork. The team use local ingredients exclusive to the Baltics, they have permission to pick certain herbs on the island, and they also have their own farm on the northern part of the island – with their aim to be fully self sufficient in a few years time.
In 2014, Oaxen Krog gained its first Michelin Star, with the second Michelin star awarded in 2015. Oaxen Krog’s sustainable ethos runs throughout the restaurant: materials have been obtained from Sweden, food waste is turned into biogas and they use as much produce that has been grown on their doorstep as they can. With its genuine sustainable philosophy, sure instincts for ingredients, and design as well as a personal commitment to both the land and kitchen, Magnus and Agneta have created a restaurant that has garnered global attention.
Oaxen Krog: The Vibe
Oaxen Slip is the sister restaurant to Oaxen Krog, a light filled space thanks to panoramic windows that offer incredible views across the water, but its though Oaxen Slip, where you’ll find Oaxen Krog behind the large wooden door.
Oaxen Krog is a magical place. Truly magical. They’ve given the same amount of love and attention to the decor as they have the food. It’s ultra calm, the noise you can hear comes from the open kitchen where a team of 10 or so chefs delicately place the different ingredients to the plates. You can’t help but watch. Watch as they meticulously slice, chop and stack, creating plates of edible art right in front of your very eyes.
Oaxen Krog is furnished in one material: wood. From floor to ceiling, the walls are cladded in wood and the chairs are the epitome of Scandinavian design. Smooth, rounded and understated. Spotlights gently hang down in the centre of the table, offering a subtle softness. The restaurant is all about elegance; it’s the kind of place you can go for a date, a birthday, and anniversary, or just a big blow out. It’s a place which allows you to experience food you’ve never had before, off the wall flavour combinations that are a taste sensation, but most of it – you’ll eat some of the freshest food.
Oaxen Krog: The Food
Where to start, where to start. Well, in truth, you start with the first course. There’s 10 courses to get through, with each dish offering contrasting flavours to the course before. The curdo of skiers cod with salty unripe gooseberries, sour cream, sorrel and daikon produces a variety of flavours; tangy, sweet with a hit of sourness. Skrei cod is a top grade Norwegian fish which has a whiter brighter flesh than other ages of cod.
Next course is the langoustine with ramson, grilled skilleby salad, dried lard and roasted buckwheat. It’s only the second course, and it’s already bowled me over. The langoustine is large, juicy and is seasoned by the thin slices of ramson for a garlicky bite. The third course is a dish that Oaxen Krog is known for, and is by far their speciality – bleak roe from Kalix with veal from Åbykvarn, emulsion of chicken stock, lovage and buttermilk. Bleak roe is a delicacy in Sweden, but at the Oaxen Krog they’ve taken the humble fish egg to the next level. The base comprises of the veal, seasoned nicely which is then topped with the bleak roe finished with the frozen buttermilk. For maxium taste, let the buttermilk melt for a few minutes. It’s the perfect dressing to the roe.
Continuing on the fish theme, the blackened scallops with mushrooms and chicken of the woods, truffle seaweed broth and hazelnut is up next. You can really taste the nuttiness from the truffle, which is perfect when paired with the salty seaweed. The scallops are just, fantastic. And the hazelnuts add another layer of depth, and the ideal crunch.
The fish dishes are finished with baked turbot with kale from Oaxen Krog, almond and fried pickled peas. The firm flesh turbot is an instant winner – seared beautifully. The kale and almonds really come together on the plate, and pickled peas adds a subtle tart taste. This dish is really something quite special.
The quail from Vinköl is presented at your table, before it’s taken away to be calved and served. And served it is, with celeriac in dandelion capers and grilled spruce cream. This delicate bird is given the treatment is deserves with delicate sides. Big gamey flavours and a surprisingly delicious addition of the spruce cream is why Oaxen Krog are masters of the food world.
Of course, no tasting menu is complete without a few sweet numbers. The first dessert is a beauty; nougatine of sphagnum with caramelised pumpkin seeds, woodruff ice cream and sloes with bitter almond. No words can describe this dish, you’ll have to go and check this one out for yourself. It’s heavenly. The last dessert is an innovative stunner, where the main ingredient used is milk. Calf-cheese with lemon verbena and whole milk ice cream, bitter almond curd and warm salty fudge. Gosh, this is pudding perfection at its finest. The saltiness from the fudge, citrus notes thanks to the lemon verbena. It’s a delight for the senses.
Oaxen Krog: The Verdict
We can’t recommend Oaxen Krog enough. Sure, it’s not the cheapest meal in town, but you’re paying for something much more than food here – it’s an experience, a sense of theatre and drama, and a seriously memorable night, which, for me, makes the whole experience totally worthwhile. Come here for chic surroundings, ingenious creations and flavours you will have never experienced, and I promise you, you’ll remember it for years to come.
For more information, visit their website here.
Beckholmsvägen 26, 115 21 Stockholm, Sweden
Photo Credit: Erik Olsson and Per Ranung
