Eat Here: HUŌ, Belsize Park

Belsize Village has a way of making London feel briefly cosmopolitan. Sitting outside at HUŌ, basking in the sun and watching the neighbourhood gently pootle away, we could easily have been on a European city break. Somewhere with handsome inhabitants, sun-drenched cobbled streets and an air of sophistication. NB. The option to mosey over to Hampstead Heath afterwards for a post-meal constitutional is also idyllic and well worth doing.

HUŌ itself feels suitably luxe: polished and unmistakably like a place that has had some serious investment behind it. In the Spring and Summer months, outdoor tables allow you to watch the world go by, and you’ll be able to spot your fair share of poodle-crosses strutting the streets while you enjoy your meal. While HUŌ does feel fancy, it doesn’t fall into the trap of being overly formal or stiff. The staff are chirpy, switched on and seem genuinely happy to be there. In our books that’s perhaps the best indication of how a restaurant is really run behind the scenes.

The menu is comprehensive and delivers on it’s pan-Asian promise: spanning dim sum, soups, small bites, seafood, curries, salads, rice and various noodle dishes. In short: there really is something for everyone – whether you’re after a table-full-of your heavy go-to classics or something altogether lighter. Obviously we opted for the former.

We recommend starting with the crispy seaweed, which is a must-order. It delivers a real blast from the past, recalling the sugary, salty green tangle reminiscent of Chinese takeaway orders of old. Only this version is distinctly cabbage-based rather than a mystery crisp masquerading as a vegetable. Nostalgic, moreish and all-the-while, HUŌ manages to keep it classy.

We also loved the chicken and prawn wonton soup. Wontons are so often pork-led, so this was a particularly welcome find for my dining partner, who doesn’t eat pig. The dumplings were tender and generously filled, bobbing in a broth which perfectly blended simplicity with depth.

Then came the crispy aromatic duck: which was the best we’ve ever had. Bold claim, perhaps, but earned. The skin had that essential caramelised crunch, while the duck beneath remained tender, moist and deeply flavoured. Wrapped in pancakes with scallions, cucumber and duck sauce, it really hit the spot.

The ho fun was similarly strong: a juicy, glossy rice noodle classic that wisely lets soy sauce do most of the talking. There is little need to meddle with a dish this comforting when the fundamentals are right, and HUŌ’s was a solid, considered performance.

Come for the suntrap terrace and holiday-adjacent Belsize Village feeling; stay for the duck, the seaweed and a menu deep enough to lull you into repeat visits.