From the sun-drenched Amalfi Coast to the rolling hills of Tuscany, Italy, the land of art, history, and gastronomy feels like a living postcard. It’s a place where time slows; where a simple espresso can turn into an hour-long conversation. On a recent escape to this captivating country, I found myself drawn to the heart of Tuscany, where the landscape unfurls like a Renaissance painting and the air carries the constant promise of wine and warmth. My destination? Relais La Corte dei Papi: a hotel that offers a slice of Italian elegance with a modern twist, nestled in the serene countryside near Cortona.

Relais La Corte dei Papi: The Lowdown

Located just a short drive from the historic town of Cortona, Relais La Corte dei Papi sits on the outskirts of San Casciano dei Bagni, a region famed for its thermal springs and medieval allure. Housed in a restored 19th-century villa, the hotel blends the grandeur of a bygone era with the comforts of contemporary travel.

The building’s elegant arches and muted stone facade are framed by sprawling gardens, offering a peaceful retreat from the bustle of everyday life. Unlike Rome’s iconic Trevi Fountain or Florence’s Duomo, this part of Tuscany trades famous landmarks for rolling hills and olive groves: a quieter kind of beauty that invites you to linger. The hotel’s location makes it an ideal base for exploring the region, with its tranquil setting providing a counterpoint to the lively towns nearby.

A brief jaunt into Cortona revealed a gem of a town, its cobbled streets lined with Etruscan walls and artisan shops. While there, I couldn’t resist a detour to Trattoria Toscana, where the pasta stole the show. The pici (thick, hand-rolled strands of doug) served with a rich ragù, was the best I tasted on this trip. Its rustic texture and deep flavours were a testament to Tuscan simplicity done right, leaving me with a newfound appreciation for this local speciality.

Relais La Corte dei Papi: The Rooms

Getting back to Relais La Corte dei Papi is like arriving at a haven of relaxation, the atmosphere is effortlessly laid-back, with guests lounging under shaded pergolas or sipping wine by the poolside. Our room was a lesson in opulence, featuring a grand bed with an ornate, tufted headboard and a private spa area that’s unique to this hotel. The in-room spa included a steam room and a deep soaking tub, a bold choice that might not suit everyone, especially in the 30-degree heat of an Italian summer. Still, the concept is intriguing, offering a spa experience without leaving your suite. The wooden floors and vintage mirrors added character, though the space was tempered by the inevitable chaos of travel, scattered clothes and children’s toys hinted at the realities of family stays. The view from the window, a sweeping vista of green hills and golden fields, was the real showstopper, inviting lazy mornings with a cup of coffee in hand.

Relais La Corte dei Papi: The Food

The hotel’s restaurant further elevates the experience with high-quality cooking and innovative dishes. The menu showcases Tuscan classics with a modern twist – think wild boar ravioli with sage butter or a deconstructed tiramisù that reimagines the dessert with a creamy, layered finesse. The ingredients are fresh, often sourced locally, and the presentation is as thoughtful as the flavours, making it a dining experience that lingers in the memory.

No trip to Tuscany is complete without a wine tour, and Relais La Corte dei Papi’s proximity to vineyards makes it the perfect launchpad. We visited La Combàrbia, a family-run estate where passion is at the heart of every bottle. The owner greeted us with a warm smile, leading us through the vines as he showed us the grapes, small, green clusters that promised the rich reds to come. His personal, detailed explanation of the winemaking process was a highlight, from the careful pruning of the Sangiovese grapes to the aging in oak barrels. The tasting that followed was glorious. The Nobile di Montepulciano, with its deep ruby hue and notes of cherry and spice, was a standout, while the Rosso di Montepulciano offered a lighter, fruit-forward alternative.

Relais La Corte dei Papi: The Verdict

Relais La Corte dei Papi’s relaxed atmosphere, stunning gardens, and unique in-room spa features offer a blend of luxury and authenticity that feels quintessentially Italian. The pool invites lazy afternoons, the restaurant delights with innovative cuisine, and the nearby wine tours at La Combàrbia provide a taste of the region’s heart. Whether you’re seeking a family escape or a romantic retreat, this Tuscan haven is worth every moment. Pack your bags, leave the city behind, and let Relais La Corte dei Papi whisk you into the timeless embrace of Italy.

For more information, visit the website here.