In recent years, a quiet migration has been unfolding across the Golden Gate. San Franciscans, weary of the city’s relentless pace, soaring costs and occasional chaos, have been crossing the bridge in search of something calmer, greener and more grounded.

Marin County, with its rolling hills, redwood groves and waterfront villages, has become the promised land for many. Sausalito, that picturesque cluster of houseboats and hillside homes perched on the northern edge of the bay, feels like the jewel in the crown. Once a bohemian fishing village and wartime shipbuilding hub, it now attracts tech castaways seeking space to breathe, families craving top-tier schools, and anyone who dreams of waking to the sound of lapping water rather than honking traffic.

Inn Above Tide: The Lowdown

I understand the appeal entirely. On a crisp winter weekend, I joined the exodus – albeit temporarily – checking into the Inn Above Tide, a 31-room boutique hotel that literally floats on the edge of San Francisco Bay. It’s the perfect base for those who want to dip into the city’s buzz without surrendering to its intensity. A 30-minute ferry ride deposits you at the Ferry Building marketplace; an hour later, you’re back in the hush of Sausalito, watching the same skyline twinkle across the water like a distant memory.

The Inn Above Tide occupies prime real estate on Sausalito’s waterfront promenade, a spot where Bridgeway, the town’s main artery, meets the bay. There’s no grand lobby or sprawling grounds; instead, you step straight from the street into an understated reception that feels more like arriving at a stylish friend’s seaside home. Valet parking is handled efficiently (essential in a town where spaces are coveted), and within minutes, you’re whisked to your room. The hotel has no restaurant, a deliberate choice that forces you out into Sausalito’s excellent dining scene. Barrel House Tavern, with its waterfront patio and inventive California cuisine, is a five-minute stroll away. Fish., the sustainable seafood institution, serves perhaps the finest crab rolls in Northern California just down the path. Poggio Trattoria offers refined Italian, while Sushi Ran remains a Michelin-recognised gem for sushi lovers. Even the casual spots, like the quirky Hamburgers Sausalito, deliver with bay views as their secret ingredient.

Inn Above Tide: The Rooms

But the real magic begins when you reach your room. I was fortunate enough to stay in the Panorama Suite, the hotel’s flagship offering at the top end of its range. At approximately 720 square feet, it’s vast by boutique hotel standards. More Manhattan penthouse than typical California inn. The layout is a great-room style: one expansive, open-plan space where the bedroom flows seamlessly into the living area, anchored by a wood-burning fireplace that crackles invitingly on cooler evenings. The king bed dominates one end, plush robes hang ready, Bvlgari toiletries line the bathroom shelves, and thoughtful touches abound –  binoculars for wildlife spotting, a Bluetooth iHome clock radio with wireless charging and a well-stocked mini bar.

The bathroom deserves its own paragraph. A shower built for two with multiple heads, a separate powder room for practicality, and the pièce de résistance – a free-standing spa tub positioned directly in front of floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bay. Running a bath here, with Bvlgari bubbles rising and the San Francisco skyline materialising through occasional fog, ranks among the most indulgent experiences I’ve had in years of travel.

Yet nothing prepares you for the views. The suite’s name is no marketing hyperbole. An expansive private deck, furnished with comfortable seating and high enough to clear the promenade below, stretches the length of the room. From here, and from virtually every vantage point inside, you command a panoramic sweep of San Francisco Bay that feels almost theatrical. Straight ahead lies Alcatraz, brooding and mysterious. To the right, the San Francisco skyline rises like a mirage.

But it’s the bay itself that steals the show. This is living, breathing water. Ferries ply their routes like clockwork toys. Sailboats tack gracefully across the current. Sea lions bark from nearby rocks you can hear them clearly on quiet mornings. Pelicans dive-bomb for fish. Occasionally, a container ship glides past, bound for Oakland’s port. I spent hours simply watching, binoculars in hand, as the view shifted from hour to hour. It’s mesmerising, restorative, and of course, profoundly romantic.

Inn Above Tide: Breakfast

Marin County offers plenty to lure you. Mount Tamalpais – affectionately called Mt Tam – looms just minutes away, its trails offering some of California’s finest hiking. Further afield lies Tomales Bay, where oyster farming thrives in the clean, cold waters. The Marshall Store, a weathered shack on Highway 1, has achieved cult status among food lovers. Back at the hotel, evenings bring another ritual: the complimentary wine and cheese reception from 5-7pm. Served in a light-filled lounge overlooking the water (or delivered to your room if you prefer privacy), it’s remarkably generous, far more than the usual hotel nibbles. Breakfast follows a similar pattern, continental but executed with care, rare in the early morning genre. Delivered to your room or deck at your chosen time, trays arrive laden with proper French pastries, excellent bagels, fresh fruit, yogurt, good coffee and juices. Again, no skimping for Americans accustomed to meagre hotel breakfasts, this feels like a small miracle.

At around $1,895 per night for the Panorama Suite (rates vary seasonally), this is unequivocally expensive. But context matters. You’re paying for one of the world’s great waterfront locations, combined with thoughtful design and genuine hospitality. For anniversaries, honeymoons, or simply when you need to remember why you fell in love with Northern California, it’s difficult to imagine a more perfect retreat. As I watched my final sunset from the deck, city lights beginning their evening sparkle, a lone sailboat ghosting across darkening water, I understood exactly why so many are making the move permanent. The Inn Above Tide doesn’t just offer a room with a view. It offers perspective.

Address: 30 El Portal, Sausalito, CA 94965, United States

For more information on the Inn Above Tide, see here.