Miss Buns in Kentish Town redefines the word ’intimate’. I don’t mean intimate in a cutesy, trendy way; I mean, this restaurant literally consists of a kitchen.

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If, like me, you choose this tiny setting to discuss your latest dating debacles, be prepared to air your indiscretions with other dumpling diners.

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After an impromtu photoshoot with Miss Bun herself (see below), we settled down at the window counter-top to await our treats.

We ordered a plate of prawn dumplings, translucent with a rosy hue – they were light and delicate (which is a considerable accomplishment for something which is 90% dough) – simply perfect.

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The broth with pork dumplings tasted like snogging a spicy tree, in a really very good way, and minus the splinters. Despite that metaphor not really working, it’s more than enough to say that the broth was complex and yummy. The accompanying pork dumplings were silky as oysters, gliding down your throat before you’ve had time to realize that they’re filled with moist, herby minced pork.

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Living up to her namesake, Miss Bun really delivers: the chicken bun is the closest thing to a cuddle you could hope for on a cold spring day in Kentish town. Pillowy, steamed dough reminiscent of brioche wraps itself around a well-seasoned filling of minced chicken, and I have to muster all the little decorum I have to stop myself from giving Miss Bun a hug. This little hole in the wall is unpretentious and delicious. Go go go.

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