When you think of Harrods, you probably think of designer bags, designer shoes, designer clothes, and designer…food? 

For the uninitiated, Harrods has one of the most aesthetically pleasing restaurant areas known to man, complete with live bands and places selling everything from sushi to spaghetti. The latest addition to this fanciest of food halls is the Mediterranean Grill by Assembly, an Eastern Mediterranean-inspired eatery focussing on grilled meat, seafood, and mezze. Founded by Athanasios Kargatzidis, a chef who already has restaurants in Beirut, Dubai, and Portugal under his belt, the Mediterranean Grill aims to be a cut above your standard shish kebab, which is just as well considering the location. 

Luckily it pulls this off with ease, serving unpretentious but delicious food which hits the mark perfectly. The hummus with spiced prawn and crab might sound like an unnecessary twist on an old favourite, but any doubts will soon disappear once you’re eating some of the best hummus of your life – especially when it’s paired with hot, fluffy pita bread fresh from the oven. Other small plates worth your attention are the charred aubergine (removed from its skin at the table like a vegetarian equivalent of a freshly filleted fish) and the roasted beetroot and blue cheese salad. Again, both take a Mediterranean classic and tweak it just enough for it to be individual and delicious. Who knew something referred to as a  ‘walnut salsa’ could be so tasty when paired with hunks of cheese and beetroot?

The options from the grill continue this theme, with the scallops served with a miso butter and spring onions, and the duck coming on a bed of rice with dates and herbs. Both impress, although the menu does little to flag the differences in size among the dishes grouped under the same heading. The duck would comfortably be a main meal all on its own, while the scallops – while fantastic – are more a starter than the main event. Staff are on hand and more than happy to talk through the sizing so it’s not a huge issue, but something worth bearing in mind when ordering.

One thing which is refreshing to see is the range of grill options available, with monkfish, chicken, and lamb all available. A lot of restaurants lean far too heavily on beef when firing up the grill, so it’s good to have cowless options, although steak fans needn’t worry about a lack of choices either.

The dessert menu is limited to just two options, but both are phenomenal. The merry cream is as if someone made the most gourmet Mcflurry possible, then added a few perfectly made baklava for good measure. The other option, a chocolate truffle tart, is equally moreish, and anyone who isn’t visiting alone should consider getting both and sharing.

It can be hard to carve out a niche in London’s restaurant market, especially with a lack of street-facing frontage to lure in passing trade. It’s probably even harder when you set up in a food hall alongside other restaurants who have been trading for years. The Mediterranean Grill by Assembly shoulders this challenge and, in both food and service, more than deserves its place at the table. Check it out next time you’re buying a Gucci handbag (or, more likely, browsing luxury items as an excuse to wander around Harrods).

87-135 Brompton Rd, London SW1X 7XL

For more information, see here