France has always held a special allure for Brits, but more than ever, it seems, we’re choosing to drive rather than fly. Perhaps that’s a testament to the growing popularity of Le Shuttle, that rare marvel of an efficient way to travel in the UK, perhaps the ‘le’ in Le Shuttle suggests we have the French to thank.

bastide rose

On my first car trip across the Channel (joined by my family and Rico the dog), I found myself winding through Provence to the Domaine de La Bastide Rose, a charming bed and breakfast nestled on a private island in the meanders of the Sorgue River. Housed in a former 18th-century paddlewheel mill-turned-marble factory, this elegant mansion in Le Thor, just next to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, has welcomed guests for over 25 years under the watchful eye of Poppy Salinger. Its history whispers through the stone walls, blending rustic charm with a refined touch that sets the stage for an altogether very French stay.

bastide rose

The vibe here is unmistakably that of a true bed and breakfast; unpretentious and welcoming, with a clear invitation to help yourself and settle in. The relaxed atmosphere has its ups and downs; for example, the single small fridge shared among guests feels like a slight oversight in an otherwise thoughtful setup. It’s like living with the family, which, in a way, you are. During our stay, we met most of the household, some more welcoming than others! The rustic-chic original feel, with its exposed beams and vintage furnishings, strikes a balance between homely and stylish, though it’s clear this isn’t a polished resort – it’s a lived-in space with soul.

The rooms reinforce that sense of comfort, all generously sized and accommodating. Our baby settled easily with a provided cot, and the lovely views over the grounds, rolling greenery dotted with oleanders, were a daily delight. The bathrooms are well-stocked with plush towels and quality toiletries, offering a touch of luxury that feels personal rather than corporate. Air conditioning kept the summer heat at bay, a practical nod to modern needs in this historic setting.

Food, however, is the real highlight. The generous buffet breakfast sets the tone, featuring everything from eggs cooked to order to an array of delicious pastries, spreads, hams, and cheeses that could rival any market stall. But it’s the dinners, crafted in our case by Juliette – the owner’s daughter, who’s inherited her father’s passion for cooking – that truly shine. Taken outside on a beautiful terrace setting, overlooking the river, these meals rival any French restaurant. Dishes like local beef or a delicate fish en papillote burst with fresh, local flavours, served with a fine selection of regional wines.

The gardens are another jewel in La Bastide Rose’s crown. The low-key, peaceful (when our baby wasn’t screaming) pool offered a refreshing dip while the extensive grounds, stretching over three hectares, captivated with its natural beauty. A river runs through the middle, its cold waters inviting a bracing swim, and the seating areas along its banks are a beautiful spot for quiet reflection. Surrounded by oleanders and the gentle hum of Provence, it’s a place to unwind, though the chill of the river might not suit everyone!

This isn’t a stay for those seeking a hands-on, curated experience. La Bastide Rose is more like a home from home (though not quite your home), with its beautiful setting, outstanding food, and relaxed atmosphere. The allowance of dogs in some areas adds a welcoming quirk, appealing to pet lovers, while the personal touch of living alongside the family creates a unique charm. It’s not perfect – uneven hospitality and the shared fridge might test the patience of some – but the overall package feels authentic and heartfelt.

As I packed up to head back through Le Shuttle, I couldn’t help but smile at the thought of France’s enduring pull. La Bastide Rose encapsulates that magic: a slice of Provençal life where history, hospitality, and nature intertwine. For those willing to embrace its quirks, this bed and breakfast offers a stay that proves that sometimes, the journey across the Channel is worth every mile.

For more information on La Bastide Rose, see here.

99 chemin des croupières
84250 Le Thor