Eat Here: Cyan, BrightonBy Alicia Grimshaw
When you think of Brighton, The Grand Hotel is often one of the first things that comes to mind (after dangerously confident seagulls and the pier). Undoubtedly one of the UK’s most iconic properties, The Grand has seen it all; from kickstarting ABBA’s career in 1974 (the foursome stayed there the night they won Eurovision in the nearby Brighton Dome), to attempted assassination attempts (Thatcher in 1984) via a flurry of iconic appearances across TV, film and popular culture. Much like its namesake, The Grand emits that glorious classic luxury feel, from immaculately dressed doormen to the gargantuan and illustrious lobby. Taking a right on entry will welcome you into Cyan, a restaurant that aims to embody the hotel’s history and location, while also bringing it into present day.
Cyan: The Lowdown
The hotel has played host to many restaurants over the decades, but Cyan is its latest incarnation and, according to the website it’s a place ‘where extraordinary dining experiences unfold’. Bold claim. First and foremost, let’s talk ambience. The setting is undeniably grand (excuse the pun), with panoramic views of the English Channel and a decor that strikes a harmonious balance between opulence and coastal charm. It’s giving blue Dulux Colour chart (in a good way). Try and get a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows for the best views of the beach.
Cyan: Eat and Drink
The menu, meticulously curated by Executive Chef Marcel Dufresne, offers a fusion of contemporary British and European flavours, punctuated by creative twists. To start: toasted bread and whipped burnt butter. Serve us warm carbs and lashings of rich butter and we’re happy. We began with the scallops – lightly seared and topped with tempura shallots, crispy chorizo and oil – were fresh and flavourful while the Korean-inspired sticky pork belly, with its perfectly caramelised glaze, was a testament to the kitchen’s ability to execute a well-conceived concept.
The lamb main, comprising a two-bone rack and confit leg, carrot and radicchio with honey and garlic, was impressive, albeit on the smaller side. Turning to the cod, another main course from the menu, it was prepared with evident care. The cod fillet, flaky and perfectly cooked, was paired with Jersey potatoes, tenderstem, panko egg yolk, crispy chicken skin and lemon fish cream. It was a dish that showed promise and, in many ways, represented the ethos of Cyan – to let the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves. Through no fault of Cyan’s, partly due to stuffing ourselves with the bread, we passed on dessert (although the waiter waxed lyrical about the chocolate fondant with pecan nut brittle). There’s always next time.
The cocktail menu was a nice touch and showcased a whole host of summer serves. The smoked berry smash was a personal highlight, and while I was worried it would run the risk of being overly sweet, the medley of Del Maguey Mezcal, Briottet creme de cassis, lime juice, strawberry puree and agave syrup was fruity, floral and delicately aromatic.
The restaurant’s commitment to showcasing the region’s finest ingredients, paired with slick service and a stunning setting, makes it a must-visit destination for anyone heading to (or living in) Brighton. Don’t be put off by dining in a hotel. Especially when it’s Cyan at The Grand Hotel.
For more information on Cyan, please visit the website here.
Cyan at The Grand, 97-99 Kings Road, Brighton BN1 2FW