Eat Here: Tommi’s Burger Joint, MaryleboneBy Alex Dark

I am reliably informed by somebody that knows this sort of thing that burgers have had their day, and that hot dogs are now the fashionable accessory for the trendy grill about town. If this is the case, nobody seems to have told Tomas Tómasson, a veteran of the burger business who has just opened a second London branch of Tommi’s Burger Joint on the Kings Road.

Tommi’s Burger Joint Marylebone Review: The Lowdown

Tommi’s Burger Joint Marylebone Review: The Vibe

The restaurant has all the classic Americana touches – cult posters taped to the walls, rock n’ roll music in the background and a carefully curated careless feel. The limited food options – burger, veggi burger or steak burger, all with fries of course – are scrawled by hand on scraps of cardboard above the counter. The overall effect was friendly and welcoming, and since nobody seemed in a hurry to leave it’s a good job that there’s plenty of seating.

Tommi’s Burger Joint Marylebone Review: The Food

I admit to having felt a flicker of horror when my companion ordered the veggie burger, but even as a committed carnivore I was pleasantly surprised. The bean-base is colourfully studded with peas and sweetcorn kernels, and since it’s encased in breadcrumbs and deep fried there’s a satisfying crunch as you bite into it.

Not quite as satisfying, though, as biting into a perfectly cooked burger of the meaty variety. Tommi’s keep things simple and trust in the quality of their product; a thick patty shares its place in the bun with the bare minimum of lettuce, tomatoes and onion relish. I was tempted into a slice of that oh-so-wrong yet oh-so-irresistible processed cheese, but really this is all about the beef. Charcoal grilled on the outside? Check. Pink and juicy on the inside? Check. You couldn’t ask for more in a burger.

If I had to think of a criticism it would be that the fries could have been a little warmer, but then heat loss is always a problem with these skinny chips – it’s a surface area thing.

For those in the mood for something a little more elaborate, Béarnaise and Cocktail sauces are on offer for £1 a pot, besides which there are plenty of bottled sauces and relishes to splash, dollop and drizzle without parting with any extra cash.  Pickles and jalapenos are also freely available from jars on the counter, so the more adventurous can build away to their heart’s content.

I washed my food down with a refreshing Viking beer, an Icelandic lager that gives a nod to Tómasson’s Nordic heritage. Also Icelandic was the ice-cream in our milkshake, a concoction so thick we weren’t sure whether it was supposed to be a drink or a dessert. Just as well then that it came equipped with both straws and spoons.

Tommi’s Burger Joint Marylebone Review: Our Verdict

If we’ve been taught anything by the pop-up movement – the origin of Tommi’s first London venture – it’s that fast food doesn’t necessarily have to be bad food, and that just because you pay for your meal upfront doesn’t mean it’s not worth paying for.

Tommi’s is at 342 Kings Road, Chelsea, London, SW3 5UR

For more information and to menu perve: http://www.burgerjoint.co.uk/