Eat Here: Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen, Pop BrixtonBy Gemma Perlin
Six tables in the style of a Ghanaian chop bar make up the beginnings of London’s African food revolution of chef Zoe Adjonyoh’s invention. Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen is a stalwart of the community of containers at Pop Brixton in South London, and for due reason as the winter months enter this form of healthy, nourishing comfort food is ideal for when we need it most.
Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen: The Lowdown
The vibe is inviting and intimate, but chilly. Let’s not forget that this is London in the beginning of winter, but don’t fret, although you may not be basking under the African heat, they have blankets, Sobolo tipples, and the hibiscus infused gin cocktails will turn your internal heating up. With six tables, we felt quite special to have beaten the millenial crowds off for a meal, and you really do feel like you are entering into Zoe’s kitchen for a family meal with the open kitchen.
Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen: The Food
We recommend sharing as the menu is concise. Go with friends you don’t mind fighting away their fingers. The okra fries marinated in fresh garlic and chill revolutionised this overlooked green vegetable into the most moreish of sides, and the chunky plantain chips infused with ground cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon drove us to Waitrose rejecting the humble banana for a bit. All the small plates are gluten and dairy-free, so those with dietary requirements will be able to take a chill pill.
The most popular of the mains is the dish named after the chef herself, Zoe’s jollof spiced fried chicken; tender free-range organic chicken breast strips dipped in buttermilk, coated in cornflour and deep-fried. Light, delectable and with creative flair, they’re a real hit. We also enjoyed the tender lamb cutlets with peanut sauce, a Ghanaian take on the Asian chicken satay. For vegans or those just taking some time away from meat, we recommend the hearty black-eyed bean stew, accompanied by jollof rice. Our complaint was that the portions were a tad small, but perhaps we were just feeling a little bit greedy.
We finished up with some delicious pancakes made with cornflour, whose name we can’t quite recall, but they were scrumptious. For pudding opt for the puff puff, a Ghanaian doughnut served with Cornish clotted cream, for a true taste of Ghana in the midst of London.
Photo Credit: Sarah Toure