When cultural commentators Peter York and Ann Barr first coined the term ‘Sloane Ranger’ in 1975, it referred to a Barbour-jacket clad upper-middle class West Londoner, modelled on the style of Princess Diana. Visiting Sloane Square 50 years later, it’s safe to say not too much has changed in the style department, although Chanel wellies seem to be having a bit of a moment on the rainy Wednesday we’re in town.

What has changed since then is the quality of the food, with English bistro Three Darlings exemplifying a style of dining based around fresh, local ingredients which are prepared well and served unpretentiously. The interior design is almost unbearably cool, too, with a split-level dining area and a long art-deco inspired bar – the perfect backdrop for a romantic dinner, or a brunch with your fellow Rangers and their dogs. That’s right, it’s a dog-friendly affair, with treats available on arrival and even a ‘doggy beer’ on sale, for any pooches who want to join in on getting a bit tipsy while they eat.

They cater for humans, too. Bread is made in-house, meaning the peach, goat cheese, and Serrano ham flatbread is even better than it sounds, especially when ordered alongside the salt-baked beetroot and burrata for that ever-important crust-dipping experience. The shorthorn beef ribs are another must-order, pressure-cooked until the meat basically falls off the bone and liberally glazed in char siu sauce. Honestly, we could easily have eaten an entire rack of them.

Three Darlings’ secret weapon is their Josper, an indoor charcoal oven which allows the restaurant to serve an extensive grill menu without a) choking all of the diners on barbecue smoke, or b) sacrificing that inimitable charcoal flavour. Chicken, beef, burgers – you name it, they’ll Josper it, but we opt for the market fish of the day, a whole Cornish sea bass which is definitely a course to share between two, or maybe even three. Hung to dry in a glass cabinet visible from the table and then grilled whole, the result is some of the crispiest skin we’ve ever had, coupled with deliciously tender, flaky fish.

The roasted hispi cabbage is another standout. Served as a massive wedge of grilled foliage, it’s drizzled in a smoky mayo and is good enough to be a main course – not an accolade we’d normally give to the humble cabbage.

Back to that in-house baker, whose work shines once again on the dessert menu. A choux bun with hazelnut, ice cream and a Belgian chocolate sauce is absolutely phenomenal, somehow not feeling overly heavy despite, well, all of those components we just mentioned. Pair it with one of Three Darling’s signature cocktails (we’d recommend the tequila old-fashioned), sit back, and pretend you’re Princess Di – or one of her many West London imitators at least.

For more information on The Three Darlings, see here.

241B Pavilion Rd, London SW1X 0BP