It’s 6pm on a Wednesday and, against our better judgement, we’re drinking a mix of Murphy’s stout and champagne, served to us in a silver tankard. The venue is The Newman Arms, a historic pub in Fitzrovia which has managed to avoid the glammed-up fate of so many soulless central London boozers, and the ‘Black Velvet’ we’re about to drink is a nod to Winston Churchill, who allegedly loved them.

Unfortunately for us, Churchill also loved Special Brew, so his vote of confidence does little to assuage our doubts. We take a sip and…it’s actually quite nice? Admittedly, mainly because it’s ice cold, but it’s much more palatable than it has any right to be. That said, we don’t order another one, so you can make your own mind up on that front.

With a history dating back to the 1700s (albeit as a blacksmith and a brothel before it became a pub), the Newman Arms has seen the likes of George Orwell and Dylan Thomas through its doors, and has just been refurbed and reopened as a classic pub and piehouse.

Black Velvet aside, the drinks are well-poured and reasonably priced (for the area), with the tiny interior, upstairs restaurant and atmospheric side-passage all combining to give the perfect pub atmosphere. It’s definitely one to bring any visiting tourist friends who are after a classic, photo-friendly boozer.

With all that in mind, the food could easily rest on its laurels. Luckily for us, it doesn’t. Classic British fare is served simply and with style – the half pint of prawns comes shell-on and draped over the glass, with a perfectly tangy Marie Rose sauce on the side. Likewise, a side of long stem broccoli is elevated with a herby dressing, but otherwise left to impress on its own, rather than being drowned in fancy frills.

Onto the pies, and we’re happy to say we weren’t disappointed. The beef shin and rib pie is everything you want from a cow covered in pastry – ludicrously thick gravy, creamy mash, dense chunks of beef. The fisherman’s pie is equally good, with whole prawns lurking in a rich sauce. Presentation-wise, it’s even better, with a whole langoustine erupting out of the potato lid, clutching a tiny bottle of Tabasco in its claw.

The dessert menu is…limited, to say the least, with just a cheese board or a chocolate cake to pick between. The cake is delicious, more a very dense mousse with a cherry compote drizzled on top in what feels like a subtle nod to a black forest gateau – a classic dessert which, if there’s any justice in the world, is due a tiramisu-style viral comeback.

The Newman Arms could easily be a mediocre tourist trap, especially with its central London location and rich history of hammered celebrities propping up the bar. We’re happy to report that this pitfall has been avoided, with the pub instead focusing on good food, good beer, and prices that won’t make your eyes water. On top of all that, it has some of the friendliest staff we’ve encountered in a long time. Make a trip there soon, you won’t regret it – but maybe don’t expect too much from Churchill’s favourite drink.

23 Rathbone St, London W1T 1NG

For more information on The Newman Arms, see here.