Share
Pin
Tweet
Share
Call us nostalgic, but there are certain elements of the pandemic era we miss. No, we’re not talking about the horror of the virus, the endless lateral flow tests or the loneliness, but that golden summer when Soho was pedestrianised. For once it felt how central London *should* be, boshing some al-fresco small plates without the fear of getting flattened by a lorry or black cab. However, as the world returned to normality, so did the traffic, meaning solid outside dining options in the heart of the capital are few and far between.

In that case, the newly opened terrace at Manzi’s (nestled between Greek and Frith streets) is like a siren on a stormy voyage, a fitting comparison when you see the two mermaid statues holding up the central bar. Manzi’s has been a Soho institution since the 50s, albeit now a slightly different beast since its revamp in the 2010’s. A stone’s throw from Soho Square, it delightfully sits in a middle ground between fine dining and all-day classics, a sense of flexibility where it feels just as fitting for a quick bite as it would a celebration.

Taking in the last embers of the summer sun, we opted for the terrace which felt immersed enough in the Soho hubbub without feeling like a tourist could lean over and steal your starter if they wanted. Talking of the menu, Manzi’s 21st-century focus is on seafood; usually a red flag so far from the coast but conquered with innovation in this case.

To start we opted for the dressed Dorset crab, which was packed full of flavour paired with a brown crab mayonnaise and warm bread. Rich without being overbearing, we combined with the yellowfin tuna tartare for a fresh and indulgent sharer (it should be compulsory to order two starters to share in all restaurants worldwide).

Manzi’s finds a gorgeous niche in elevating simple classics with ease, creating dishes that are of course *Instagrammable* but also not shy of substance. This is perfectly captured by The Bateman lobster roll and frites we indulged in for a main course. Beautifully crafted in a buttery brioche roll, hunks of meaty lobster complimented a tart Thousand Island dressing that packed a punch, alongside the perfect basket of french fries for an indulgent midweek feast. Elsewhere, our guest tucked into the Bouillabaise which saw a party of bream, red mullet, hake, octopus and king prawns come together for a taste sensation.

Taking in the seafood-inspired menu on the terrace offers an escape from the claustrophobia of central London, with Manzi’s managing to deliver on both the culinary experience and restaurant atmosphere – a bold task when you have a mermaid in the bar and a statue of Poseidon over the table. Consider our opinion on seafood in the capital changed.

 1-8 Bateman’s Buildings, London W1D 3EN