Eat Here: Lobos, SohoBy Oliver Malin
Frith Street in Soho certainly has lots of colour, even down to the karaoke bars. Admittedly the whole area isn’t quite as sybaritic as the old days, but at least for the right price, you (probably) can get still more then just peri peri chips. Yet up until this point, irrespective of pecuniary muscle, you couldn’t score any tapas until now. The success of Lobos in Borough market has allowed them to graduate to a second location, next door to Ronnie Scott’s.
Lobos: The Lowdown
Set over three floors, with an intimate wooden bar in the basement, Lobos (meaning wolves in Spanish) serves up the finest signature cuts of meat, which have helped to make the Borough branch so popular.
Lobos: The Food
New sharing dishes on the menu feature a range of meat feasts including grilled chorizo board (including the Basque Txistorra and Chorizo Criollo from Galicia among the more familiar varieties), and slow roasted Castillan milk-fed lamb as well as stand alone dishes such as Picañha with bone marrow. Soho’s Lobos also features new seafood tapas: octopus with sweet potato and chorizo, and seafood rice with squid and prawns. Both were vibrant, delicious and flavoursome.
Other new appetisers and small plates on the impressively extensive tapas menu include super fresh white anchovies, melt-in-the-mouth pork cheek slider, beef and duck croquette, mixed grilled vegetables and a daily changing tortilla plus the best tomato bread this side of Barcelona!
To wash down the array of tapas and sharing boards, the wine list features mainly Spanish varieties of red, white and rosé bottles, as well as sherry and cava, and stocking lesser-known varieties such as Treixadura (white wine), Bobal and Mencia (reds). If somehow you have room left for dessert, their signature dish is a wonderful dulce de leche cheesecake.