Eat Here: Khao BirdBy Adam Hassanali
Thai food is undeniably having a moment — and not just a passing trend. According to The News Movement, Thai takeaway orders in the UK have surged by 25%, driven in part by cultural influences like The White Lotus, which has spotlighted Thailand’s rich culinary landscape on our screens. But what does this growing fascination mean for Thai restaurants, especially those offering something beyond the standard pad Thai or green curry? Enter Khao Bird, a Northern Thai BBQ restaurant perched above The Globe Tavern in Borough Market — and it’s exactly the kind of place redefining Thai dining in London.
The Lowdown
Opened in September 2024, Khao Bird is the latest project from Mike Palmer, following the success of his Brighton spot, Lucky Khao. The restaurant channels the vibrant energy of Chiang Mai’s open-air night markets, delivering punchy, fire-driven flavours — but with a twist: much of the produce comes from right here in the UK, particularly Sussex.
At the helm is Chef Luke Larsson, whose CV spans some of Thailand’s most respected kitchens, including Samuay & Sons and Bo.lan. Luke brings both deep respect for traditional Thai recipes and an adventurous, modern touch, honed through years of research trips to Thailand’s bustling markets, where he’s hunted for betel leaves, live eels, and prized offal.
The Food
The menu at Khao Bird is both playful and grounded. Take the Khao Soi — a Chiang Mai signature dish of curry egg noodles in a rich, silky coconut broth, topped with pickled mustard greens and your choice of chicken, pork, or tofu. It’s comfort food with complexity, the kind of bowl you’ll want to linger over on a cold London evening. For something lighter, the Sussex Veg Som Tam offers a fresh, herb-packed salad with juicy tomatoes, peanuts, and a drizzle of Bermondsey Street honey — a nod to the restaurant’s commitment to local sourcing.
Other standouts include white corn ribs with laab sauce and coconut relish, Sai Ua (Northerners Hot Dog) — Chiang Mai-style herb pork sausage on a milk roll with spicy jaew relish, and Pork Hung Ley, a Burmese-style curry of slow-roasted Sussex pork with wild ginger and pickled garlic. For the grill lovers, the Chiang Mai BBQ Sussex chicken brings together lemongrass, white pepper, and coriander root, slow-cooked over charcoal, delivering smoky depth alongside bright tamarind sauce and a roasted chilli jaew relish.
The Drinks
The drinks list, curated by sommelier Zeren Wilson, is designed to stand up to Thai cuisine’s bold, layered flavours, with an impressive wine selection and Thai-inspired cocktails featuring lychee, lemongrass, and local craft spirits. Beers from nearby Bermondsey breweries and Thai lagers round out the offering, reinforcing Khao Bird’s blend of local and global influences.
Set on the second floor of The Globe Tavern, a historic British pub dating back to 1872, Khao Bird seats just 45 diners, making it an intimate, high-energy space that feels both modern and steeped in tradition.
With Thai food increasingly in the spotlight, Khao Bird feels like it’s arrived at the perfect moment — honouring the history and vibrancy of Northern Thai cuisine while embracing British ingredients and a playful, market-inspired approach.
For more information on Khao Bird, see here.Â