About Time: The Best Spots for Counter Dining in Borough MarketBy Alicia Grimshaw
Borough Market isn’t about quiet, tucked-away meals; it’s about energy, interaction, and the thrill of watching great ingredients come to life. That immersive spirit doesn’t stop at the stalls – it carries into its restaurants, where counter dining puts you right in the action. Here, the kitchen’s centre stage, and you’ve got the best seat in the house. Here are our top six places to pull up a stool and soak it all in.
1. For British Seafood: Applebee’s
What: Applebee’s takes the market to plate to a new level. What started as a humble fishmonger has spent the last 25 years championing the best British seafood, led by Jack Applebee and Executive Chef Frankie Van Loo. Counter seating here means front-row seats to the transformation of market-fresh fish into refined yet comforting dishes
Eat: Whole fish are dry-aged on-site for extra-crispy skin, then grilled over open flames right in front of you. Dishes like Grilled Dover Sole with brown shrimp butter or the indulgent Brown Crab Rarebit showcase Applebee’s ability to elevate British seafood with precision and flair – all while keeping the ever-popular fish and chips firmly on the menu.
Where: 5 Stoney St, London SE1 9AA
2. For Mediterranean Small Plates: Agora
What: Agora is all about sun-soaked Aegean charm with a London edge (and it’s going viral on socials for good reason). From your perch at the counter, you’re perfectly positioned for both people-watching and plate-gazing as chefs swirl silky taramasalata or sear smoky lamb skewers. A laidback spot where cocktails clink, pitas puff, and every dip is worth the double-dunk.
Eat: Expect sharing plates done right. We’re talking about spicy whipped feta with roasted peppers and pickled red chilli, pork souvlaki with oregano, and a brilliant selection of wood-fired flatbreads (our choice is the lamb adana with spiced tomato and garlic yoghurt). Ideal for grazing at golden hour with a glass of something icy.
Where: 13 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Photo Credit: Gilles Draps
3. For a Taste of Greece: Oma
What: Oma sits above the fray of Borough Market’s bustle, both literally and culinarily. From your counter stool, you’ve got a direct line to the open kitchen, where Michelin-level precision meets rustic Mediterranean warmth. It’s upscale, but in a way that still welcomes elbow-propping and wine-sipping.
Eat: Think charred lamb belly, hummus, shallot and mint salata or the delicate Cornish sea bass crudo scattered with blood orange. Flavours are clean, confident, and quietly spectacular – the sort of plates you remember days later.
Where: 2-4 Bedale St, London SE1 9AL
Photo Credit: Gilles Draps
4. For West African Flavours: Akara
What: Akara brings the bold, smoky flavours of West Africa to Borough Market’s counter-dining scene. Named after a black-eyed pea fritter, this buzzy spot is built around a charcoal grill that’s always fired up, with flames licking up into view as chefs move between pots, skewers and spice tins.
Eat: Grilled beef suya skewers are a must, layered with spice and char. There’s Efrik rice too, as well as the namesake akara – with choices of BBQ Prawn, Crab KuliKuli and Tomato. It’s vibrant, fiery food with plenty of soul.
Where: 12 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Photo credit: Charlie McKay
5. For Sri Lankan Home-Cooking: Rambutan
What: Rambutan is a celebration of Sri Lankan home-cooking, with counter seats that draw you into the sensory buzz of it all – buttery rotis slapped onto the griddle, coconut sambols pounded fresh, and curries ladled from steaming pots right in front of you.
Eat: The mutton rolls are legendary, the black pork belly curry a slow-cooked triumph. But it’s the flaky, just-made butter rotis – soft and charred, perfect for scooping up anything in sight – that make counter dining here feel like front-row access to something truly special.
Where: 10 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
Photo credit: Carol Sachs
6. For a Thai Affair: Kolae
What: Kolae delivers a deep dive into the bold, complex cuisine of Southern Thailand, with counter seats that put you close to the action – and the open fire. The space glows with spice and charcoal, and there’s real theatre in watching marinades, banana leaves, and sizzling meat come together in smoky harmony.
Eat: Whole mackerel grilled and glazed with orange chilli nahm jim. Mango and cucumber salad studded with toasted coconut and dried shrimp. A Kolae chicken that’s impossibly juicy under its lacquer of lemongrass and chilli. It’s a heady, addictive kind of dining – fast-paced but full of detail.
Where: 6 Park St, London SE1 9AB