Mayfair is a strange part of modern London, with its name (and the Ferrari dealership on Berkeley Square) evoking images of billionaires and easy living, while the reality is more ‘seconds away from that huge souvenir shop on Piccadilly Circus which sells 100 flavours of vape’. 

Inside high-end Chinese restaurant Park Chinois, there’s much more of the former than the latter. Their stated aim is to transport diners back to the 1930s and, while we didn’t live through the era ourselves, their plush furnishings, roaring fires and moody lighting are a pretty good approximation of what we’d imagine it was like. Coupled with the attentive staff and the low murmur of other customers, it’s almost impossible to believe you’re smack bang in the middle of central London. There’s even a grand piano placed evocatively in the centre of the room, although nobody emerges to do their best Elton John impression while we’re there.

Onto the food, and elevated Chinese classics are the flavour of the day. The hot and sour soup is not only well balanced between spicy and sour, but is also perfectly rich and gelatinous. We could have had a whole jug of the stuff, if we’re honest. Other appetisers include wagyu beef gyoza, seared until crispy on top, and an impressive range of Dim Sum. We opt for the chef’s selection and are rewarded with one each of the lobster, shrimp, truffle and scallop dumplings, all of which are excellent.

The main courses are where Park Chinois really flex their muscles, with classic dishes like Kung Pao chicken rubbing shoulders with a beautifully presented grilled sea bass and even caviar options, if you’re that way inclined. The Kung Pao chicken is a masterclass in doing everything just right, with crunchy cashew nuts, buttery corn-fed chicken and just the right amount of chilli thrown in for good measure. 

The sea bass, on the other hand, is simply a well-grilled piece of fish with a Siam sauce, showing that sometimes you don’t need to overcomplicate things to make a great dish. Neither the Kung Pao chicken or the sea bass comes with rice, meaning two people effectively have to order three main courses. We’ve no complaints about the delicious Yangzhou fried rice which we ordered alongside, but it’s something to bear in mind when ordering.

Finishing things with a flourish, the chocolate custard buns are springy, sweet, and a great way to end a great meal. Park Chinois is definitely one of the pricier Chinese restaurants in central London, but once you’ve relaxed into the ambience, had your first dim sum (and a margarita or two), you’ll understand why.

For more information on Park Chinois, see here.

17 Berkeley St, London W1J 8EA