Eat Here: Morty and Bob’s, King’s CrossBy Elliot Mitchell
There’s something truly understated about a grilled cheese sandwich. It’s not Michelin Star, and it’s not Masterchef, but when done correctly it can be more emotionally fulfilling than any £300 tasting menu you’ve ever had. For such a simple dish, however, so few actually do it right. Morty & Bob’s are in the opposing camp, creating some of the capital’s most well-loved cheesy bangers – in fact, they’ve based their entire menu around it, which is what made their new a la carte evening offering so appealing.
Sitting in the heart of Coal Drops Yard, Morty & Bobs is a casual, unassuming breath of fresh air in the area. In the daytime, it’s a casual cafe filled with a buzzy mix of remote workers, casual meetings and tourists checking google maps to find Platform 9 3/4 while in the evening there’s an effortless transformation into a more refined dining area that still feels refreshingly laid back.
With a mix of US and Mediterranean influences, the menu is small but well-balanced. We began the night with a selection of starters – a charcuterie platter featuring meats from local butchery Cobble Lane, Islington, a hearty mix of olives and Marcona almonds, and an aromatic rosemary foccacia. We also opted for the cheese and mushroom croquettes, possessing a spice which was complimented by a mint yoghurt dipping sauce. The aforementioned grilled cheese is also a must, and splits surprisingly well across a table, while the delicate mix of stringy, tangy cheese and mixed onions showcase why M&B’s three locations have been built on the foundation of this dish.
Moving to mains, there’s a variety of light options – from an elevated kale caesar salad or salmon fillet with beluga lentils through to more indulgent options. We opted for the flat iron steak, which was served with a Chimichurri sauce and fries, perfectly cooked and giving other steak restaurants in the capital a run for their money, and a chicken schnitzel; made to feel slightly better for you with the addition of a chopped salad (until we smothered in a Harrisa Aioli that packed the perfect punch).
Ultimately, Morty & Bob’s finds itself in a unique position, straddling the cafe and full-blown restaurant world with ease, which is no mean feat. With casual interiors and attentive but not overbearing staff, along with an inventive, cost-effective menu, it will no doubt become a perfect spot for everything from awkward first dates to quick catch-ups with friends. Somehow, it almost makes us feel like there’s more to life than a grilled cheese.
49 Coal Drops Yard, King’s Cross, London N1C 4DQ