The humble bagel. It may seem innocuous enough, all bready and delicious, but it is in fact the most divisive of baked goods.

Consider first the name ‘bagel’. Or ‘beigel’ depending on from which side of the Atlantic you hail. It could even be the original ‘Bajgiel’ for the absolute purists amongst you.

Then you must consider the finished bread itself. Chewy and consistent, or pillowy and soft. Dipped in Lye or simply boiled and baked? Flavoured or left simply as the original baker intended with no accoutrements to interfere with the flavour?

Finally to the battle of the fillings. Smoked salmon and cream cheese? Salt beef and mustard? Simple butter?

Fortunately for even the pickiest of Londoners there are no shortage of bagel-beigels available to suit every mood and preference upon which to indulge:

1. Best for Big Appetites: The Happening Bagel Bakery

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What: A traditional smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel (£2.7)

Why: The Bakery shows real commitment to the quality of their offering. Bagels are baked and boiled in the traditional way in batches throughout the day for absolute freshness. Fillings are deep and generous and there is a huge array of accompaniments available upon which to really indulge.

Bagel Winner: The smell of the bakery alone was enough to see it end up on the best of list. Forget your piped supermarket scents, Happening is warm and fragrant, with wonderful service and a big old bagel. Perfect.

Where: The Happening Bagel Bakery, Finsbury Park – here 

2. Best for Late Night Snack: Beigel Bake 

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What: Bagel with traditional salt beef (£3.7)

Why: No London list worth its salt beef would fail to include either here or its bitterest rival, Beigel Shop which is situated just two doors up on Brick Lane.

Bagel Winner: Because even an American purist can find something to love here. The service is dire, the place is run down but when the food looks, smells and tastes this good who cares about the lack of fancy pants furniture. Chewy, hot and salty – perfect late night ‘grab-grub’.

Where: Beigel Bake, Brick Lane – here

3. Best Winter Warmer Bagel: Beigel Shop

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What: Hot Salt Beef, Gherkin and Mustard Bagel (£3.7)

Why: Beigel shop may make the same product as their rivals Beigel Bake, but they most definitely do not sell the same thing.

Bagel Winner: We visited on a cold day and there was something so infinitely satisfying about the cushiony softness of the bagels from this bakery, coupled with moist salty beef and sharp pickles. They do have other fillings but the key difference for this place is their service. Smiling even through the hordes clamouring for attention, courteous and warm. No matter how grey the day, this place brings the sun out.

Where: Beigel Shop, Brick Lane – here

4. Best Grab + Go Lunch Time Bagel: Carmellis

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What: Traditional Bagel with Tuna and Sweetcorn (£2.1)

Why: It’s hard not to love the business that bought the traditional boiled and baked bagel to the U.K. The bagels are freshly baked by hand on-site and the fact that the owners respect the history of the business shows in every bite.

Bagel Winner: Filling such traditional bread with tuna and sweetcorn may considered an act of the true heathen by some purists, but there is undeniably something marvellous about fish and creamy fillings with bagels, and when that bagel is crispy on the outside, chewy in the middle and as fresh as they come, not to mention cheap we simply couldn’t argue.

Where: Carmellis, Golders Green Road – here

5. Best for Flavour: M & D Grodzinski

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What: Onion Bagel and Cinnamon Raisin Bagel (£0.4 each)

Why: We all like a little variety in our life and this bakery provides it. The selection of Hamotzi bagels is wide and varied but the onion bagel is the key stand-out of the pack.

Bagel Winner: Because M & D care about making beautiful bagels in the traditional way but are not afraid to roll with the times a little. Theirs were the closest we could find to traditional American bagels and the onion version is quite literally bursting with flavour.

Where: M & D Grodzinski, Golders Green Road – here 

6. Best Posh Bagels: Daniels

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What: A bag of mixed mini bagels (£2.6)

Why: You might not think of bagels as stylish but caterers and bakers Daniels make them so. Mini sesame seed coated treats, a gorgeous little bakery with a seating area. Lovely.

Bagel Winner: Because even the most committed bread lover doesn’t always want huge bites. Offering these little treats with your own preference of filling is a great idea for the bagelista-about-town. The prices are reasonable, the staff are great and we challenge not to leave with a bag full of their other delicious goodies as well.

Where: Daniels Bakery, Finchley Road – here