About Time: You Discovered London’s Best BaoBy Sophie Coughlan
London has gone gaga for bao over the past few years, thanks to the welcome explosion of Asian cuisine taking over our streets, markets and restaurants. Light, inexpensive and ridiculously moreish, these little buns were brought to the forefront of the foodie scene back in 2013 with the launch of Flesh and Buns, which became as well known for its DIY bao bottomless brunches, as it did for its unusually decorated bathrooms (avoid if risqué Japanese porn might offend you).
No longer a fleeting trend but a dish that’s here to stay, we’re here to help you track down the best new pillow-soft, fluffy buns to bolt down across London. You can thank us later. Dig in:
What: Can’t afford a flight to Hong Kong in the imminent future? Fear not – this newly opened bao bun street cafe in Soho will transport you straight there, thanks to husband and wife team Alex Peffly and Z He. Once you’ve had your fill of its ridiculously good buns, head down to the hidden speakeasy Tea Room beneath the cafe, open until the early hours to enjoy a cocktail or three.
Eat: Bun House serves straightforward lamb, chicken, pig, fish and veggie options in closed buns (Chinese, rather than Taiwanese style) for just £2.50 a pop, leaving plenty of leftover change for a delish blue garlic or seasonal choy pickle or two on the side. For those with a sweet tooth, some room to spare and a steely nerve, give the ‘dessert’ options a try, which include a custard bun made with coconut milk, salted duck egg and carrot juice, or the red choc bun made with dark chocolate, pig’s blood and chilli. Not for the faint hearted.
Where: 24 Greek Street, Soho, W1D 4DZ
2. For New Buns: Bao Bar at Cha Chaan Teng
What: Holborn favourite Cha Chaan Teng launches its Bao Bar this week under the creative eye of School of Wok founder and TV Chef Jeremy Pang. This popular East meets West fusion restaurant puts a playful twist on a traditional Hong Kong tea room, serving up an array of Asian classics with a generous side of London attitude.
Eat: The new offering will serve up a range of mouth-watering ‘bao burgers’ including sweet and sour chicken thigh with carrot, coriander pickle and toasted rice crumb, as well as crispy sweet potato and spring onion rosti with aubergine salsa and a sesame beetroot pickle – good enough to tempt even the most carnivorous of diners (though the short-rib is sure to go down a storm with them, too). Make sure you wash them down with a Shanghai Supernova or a playfully-named MSG cocktail, too.
Where: 36-38 Kingsway, Holborn, City of London WC2B 6EY
What: The second outpost from the wildly popular Bao, this bun stalwart not only takes bookings (meaning you don’t have to battle the monster, round-the-clock queues of its sister shop), but also offers in-branch specials that make this worth the pilgrimage, wherever you live in London.
Eat: Don’t be put off by the slightly terrifying looking ‘cod black’ option – it’s a must try. The butter-soft cod fillet is coated in a deep black batter made with squid ink and Taiwanese beer, and is served with a creamy yet tangy sauce; whilst not the most instagrammable of dishes, it’s definitely the most delicious. For the less decisive amongst us, this branch also offers mini baos on weekday lunchtimes – the perfect way to sample all the different fillings without feeling stuffed to the brim.
Where: 31 Windmill St W1T 2JN
4. For High-End Buns: Park Chinois
What: For those in the know, this opulent Mayfair venue from the brains behind Hakkasan and Yauatcha has recently undergone a casual £16m refurb, promising to transport its evening guests to a Shanghai jazz club for a night of delectable dim sum and sultry swing.
Eat: Although the £75 Cantonese duck with caviar upgrades is worth splashing the cash for, if you’re trying to impress, we’re all about the bao in this instance. To keep your bank balance in check, we recommend heading for the lunchtime dim sum menu, where you can feast on corn-fed chicken bao, Xiaolongbao (the now-infamous soup dim sum that shouldn’t be popped) and even custard baos for a fraction of the night-time prices.
Where: 17 Berkeley St, Mayfair, London W1J 8EA<
5. For Ice Cream Buns: Yum Bun
What: Street Feast regular Yum Bun prides itself on its fresh, British produce in regular rotation across its various stalls, serving some of the best bao in London and earning the well-deserved ‘world’s best street food’ accolade from The Sunday Times.
Eat: Forget the traditional fillings (though we can’t resist a cheeky crispy fish chilli and mango glaze bao), the ice-cream buns are where it’s at. Served from 4pm, the apple version is served up in a cinnamon-flavoured bun, and the coconut milk sorbet is encased in a crispy bao bun with miso caramel, peanut brittle – utter, indulgent bliss.
Where: Dinerama, 19 Great Eastern Street London EC2A 3EJ Thurs – Sat and Hawker House, Canada Street London SE16 7PJ Thurs – Sat
